Tom Woods Drive Shaft

Part #:

Additional Parts:
Red Lock-tit
String
Paint or Nail Polish
Duct Tape
Blue Locktite
Red Locktite

Tools Needed:
3/8" Ratchet
3/8" to 1/4" Socket adapter
4" extension
Torque Wrench
5/8" Crows foot for torque wrench
5/16" Socket
15mm Socket
19mm Socket
5/8" Combo Wrench

Rear Drive Shaft Removal and Installation:
1. I ordered the Tom Woods Drive shaft for this kit. Mainly because I didn't want to be changing out a whole lot of parts and wanted to keep my old drive shaft as a trail spare. While the Rubicon's drive shaft is stated as being a 3/4 ton and Tom Woods is a 1/2 ton the weight difference is very noticeable. Tom's drive shaft is just heavy, it made me wonder about which one was really stronger. Tom has some really great tech info on this. The nice thing is that you can grease all the joints and splines on this one. I did need to wipe off quite a bit of grease when I got it. It still threw off lots of grease into the underside of the body. The drive shaft comes with all the bolts, adapter plate and a small tube of red locktite. No instructions were included.
2. I first marked the position of the drive shaft so that I could get everything to somewhat line up when I installed the new drive shaft. I used some touch up auto paint that I had laying around. You could also use some nail polish. I then removed the bolts holding the straps in for the rear pinion. These bolts are in with blue locktite, so take a little getting started on the removal. You will need a 5/16" socket. I used a 1/4" with the 3/8" to 1/4" adapter to get enough leverage to break them free. Make certain that you keep the straps and bolts matched to their positions. I wrapped the universal with duct tape to keep the bearing caps on.
3. Now you will need to remove the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft onto the balancer. I needed to rotate the drive shaft to get all the bolts loose, couldn't get the right angle on the top one. I did shift the transfer case into 4hi to give it some more holding strength. You will need a 15mm socket and extension for these and it does take a little bit go get them out. They are held in by more blue locktite. Once again you can see my paint dots for alignment.
4. As you can see this is what it looks like once you get the drive shaft out. I cleaned up the threads with a scribe and some toothpicks to get as much of the locktite out as possible. I ran the black bolts supplied by Tom through to make certain that they were clean. Your torque is dependent on how clean these holes are.
5. Now install the adapter plate on to the balancer. Make certain that you get it down over the center nice and tight. I played with it a little to get the bolt holes to line up. You will use the black bolts and the flat washers, I ran a line of red locktite on the bolt before I installed it the final time.. You will need a 19mm socket for these.
6. Now position the drive shaft in place and install the gold bolts with the lock washers. It is good to have a buddy to hold the shaft while you get these in. I ran a line of red locktite on the bolt before I installed it the final time. You will need a 5/8" wrench for these because of clearance.
7. Now install the single universal into the pinion yoke. I used blue locktite on these bolts. Make certain that the universal sits flush in the pinion yoke before you tighten down the straps. I alternated back and forth tightening them down so that I didn't cock the universal in the yoke. You will need a 5/16" socket. I used a 1/4" with the 3/8" to 1/4" adapter.
8. Now all you need to do is recheck your drive shaft angles. Remember the rear pinion yoke and drive shaft need to be at the same angle.

	N-m	Ft. Lbs.	In. Lbs.
REAR SHAFT REAR YOKE BOLTS	19	14	-
REAR SHAFT TRANSFER CASE FLANGE BOLTS	115	85	-

Skid Plate	Brake Line Standoffs	Long Arms	Front End	Rear End
Additional Parts	Magna-Flow Muffler	Tom Woods Drive Shaft	Issues	Final Notes

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail, Ronald Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work. While I have spent many years working on mechanical systems, I am not an expert, nor do I pretend to be one. I hope these write ups have been useful to you.
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