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Off Road Only AiROCK Suspension

Off Road Only AiROCK Suspension

Part #: 6"

How many times have you been on a trail and said “If I only had a little more ground clearance I wouldn’t have gotten stuck,” or been off camber with a tree or rock threatening to do bodily harm to your Jeep. How about that Highway ride after you finally managed to get the clearance that you needed. Remember that garage that you used to park in occasionally to work on the Jeep that now the Jeep can’t get into, and of course let us not forget the significant other that doesn’t really enjoy climbing up into the Jeep.

How would you like to be able to change the height of your jeep, tilt the jeep away from that obstacle, have 2 different heights 1 for off road, 1 for on road and have the ability to lower the jeep to a sensible level for the significant other all at the push of a button? If your answer is no, then don’t bother reading any further. If your still interested then AiROCK™ by Off Road Only may be for you.

AiROCK™ is a computer controlled air spring system that replaces the coils in your Jeep. The air springs come in two sizes, a 4” and a 6” size. The kits include 4 springs, 4 shocks, 4 height sensors, AiROCK™ Control Unit (ACU), 1 dash mounted controller, a wiring harness and air tubing. Since this is only a coil replacement system you will still need the suspension system and air source (typically Onboard Air) for the system.

AiROCK™ offers some distinct advantages over coil spring systems. The biggest advantage is that the user controls the height, pitch and roll of the vehicle with a just the touch of a button. Another great advantage of air springs over coils is that the air springs do not rebound off of an obstacle. This allows for a ride that is smooth over obstacles without that sudden spring action that could throw your jeep past it’s center of gravity and out of control. One other advantage is Air springs do not sag over time. If you want 4” of height, you get it, even when you add in extra weight, the system just puts more air in the bags to maintain the height. You also gain the ability to change tire size and only have to bump up the height on the springs. We have all rode in vehicles that were really tall just to clear the tires underneath them off road. Well with AiROCK™ you can do that and still maintain a lower ride height on road.

The vehicles speed and the height of all for air springs are monitored to allow for total control of your vehicle. AiROCK™ has 3 operating modes. These are “Off-road”, “On-Road” and “Freeway”. Off-road you have complete control of your height and vehicles angle. You can control the center of gravity by lowering the vehicle, or raise the vehicle to clear an obstacle. You can rock the vehicle to the side to avoid that tree or rock on the side of the trail that is always catching your windshield frame or body part. You can even raise or lower the front and rear ends to allow for you to get up or down that obstacle. Most importantly you have some control of your center of gravity.

On-road the system maintains your stability by automatically compensating for body roll and pitch. An example would be during a panic stop the sensors would automatically note the sudden down force on the front springs and pressurize to stop the front from nose diving.

Freeway the vehicle automatically lowers itself for a more stable ride. The system will monitor the springs and assist with roll control by pressurizing springs on either side of the vehicle depending on drivers reactions to the road conditions.

One other advantage is an optional feature, when activated, that automatically lowers the vehicle to the bump stops to facility getting in and out easier.

Some people are interested in how much flex will an AiROCK™ kit achieve. The system will flex comparable to the coil suspensions. The older kits did lack a little bit of flex, but with the new Walker Evans shocks that issue has gone away. Off Road Only is constantly listening to the owners of AiROCK™ and improving the system.

26-Apr-2018th this kit will bring a few things to light right away. The first thing you will notice will be the air noise from the solenoids, you will get used to it after a little while. Though I am assuming that you can actually hear them over the tires. Once you start driving you will notice the softness of the ride, almost like you are riding on air. The biggest change you will notice comes when you drive fast enough for the system to shift to freeway mode. The suspension will now react to turns, stopping and even bumpy road surfaces.

Off-road is where the suspension really shines. Bumps are soaked up, you don’t rebound off of obstacles. Those trees and rocks that you used to have to avoid, now slide right by as you tilt the jeep away from them. I was able to run the same trails with both springs and the AiROCK™ suspension. The AiROCK™ made the trail almost too comfortable to drive. The most enjoyable comment came after the word about a low hanging branch came over the radio. The ability to drive right up to the branch and hit all down on the AiROCK™ so that I could drive under it received the comment “Now that’s cheating.”

I would have to say the feature on AiROCK™ that allows for the most fun with the kids and even some admiration from the local low-rider club is the demo mode feature. The mode will put the AiROCK™ through it’s range of motions and will gain a lot of attention.

I purchased my kit through Mac at and Steve at Off Road Only. Mac and Steve are awesome to do business with. The kit is a technical installation and Off Road Only provides a nice installation manual. Manual is available on the web site. I would not recommend installing this kit unless you have at least a moderate skill in mechanical work. Incorrect installation can be very expensive.

The installation if for a 6” AiROCK on a Rubicon Express Long Arm Suspension. It shows the older Edlebrock Shocks vice the new Walker Evan’s.

Off Road Only
(651) 644-2323

I had always been very interested in the ability to control the aspects of a jeep from in the cab.  The ability to tilt and lean, correct when off camber, lift the jeep when you get high centered, or lower it for better riding on the highway.  So I decided to install a 6" AiROCK suspension into the Jeep.  This write up is currently a rough draft but since a few people wanted to see it, I decided to put it up a little early or in this case since I'm far behind on write ups, a little late.  This was actually installed last year in 2004.

Additional Parts:
(4) 3/8-16 x 1 1/2" Grade 8 Hex Bolts

Tools Needed:
Vise or C-clamp
Flat Tip Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver #2
19mm Deep Well Socket
3/4" Deep Well Socket
1/4" Socket
5/16" Socket
1/2" Socket
9/16" Socket
3/4" Socket
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
18mm Socket
Short Extension
Long Extensions (2)
3/8" Combo Wrench
1/2" Combo Wrench
9/16" Combo Wrench
11/16" Combo Wrench
3/4" Combo Wrench (2)
1 1/4" Combo Wrench
13mm Combo Wrench
15mm Combo Wrench
18mm Combo Wrench
5/32" Allen Wrench
3/8" Drill Bit
1/2" Drill Bit
7/8" Drill Bit or Dremel
Small Adjustable Wrench
Large (12") Adjustable Wrench (2)
(4) 6 or 12 ton Jack Stands"
Floor jack

This lift kit will require you to support the entire Jeep by the frame during install.  Due to the air springs requiring pressurization prior to the axles supporting the vehicles weight.  The shocks will withstand the weight of the Jeep for a short period of time. I recommend jacking and supporting the front end first then lifting the rear and dropping the vehicle in the reverse order.

AiROCK Installation Short Arm
AiROCK Installation Long Arm
ACU Operation Manual
Compressor Service Manual

Installation: JKS Bar Pin Eliminators and Shock Adaptors to Shocks
I assembled all the parts required to assemble the shocks.  The on thing I noticed was how massive the Front Upper Shock Adaptors were. DSC02755.JPG (61047 bytes)
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Front Lower Bar Pin Eliminators
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Rear Upper Bar Pin Eliminators
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Front Upper Shock Adaptors
Rear Upper Bar Pin Eliminators
1. Install the Rear Upper Bar Pin Eliminators.  You will first need to drive out the sleeves from the bushings.  I used the bar pins themselves to do this.  Place a 19mm or 3/4" Deep Well Socket underneath and tap the Bar pin though the shock eye. DSC02799.JPG (62853 bytes)
2. Once you have the pin all the way through you need to install the other side.  There is a small pin that needs to go through the pin to hold the block in place.  I used a c-clamp to push the block all the way in and lined up the holes in the block and pin.  Then gently tap the pin into place.  You can also place a bolt through the block and pin to help hold it on while installing the pin.
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3. Fully installed on the Rear Shocks. DSC02802.JPG (64172 bytes) DSC02803.JPG (60871 bytes)
Front Lower Bar Pin Eliminators
1. First remove 1 nut and bolt from one side and remove the block from the bar pin eliminator.
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2. You will need to drive out the sleeves from the bushings.  I used the bar pins themselves to do this.  Place a 19mm or 3/4" Deep Well Socket underneath and tap the Bar pin though the shock eye. DSC02794.JPG (63425 bytes)
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3. Once you have the pin all the way through you need to install the other side.  I used a c-clamp to push the block all the way in and lined up the holes in the block.  Then place a bolt through the block to hold it in place.
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Shock Adaptors
1. Check your shock adaptors.  The center bolt is welded in and in my case the welds interfered with the upper shock eye on the shocks.  The shock eye sits very close to the top of the bolt in the adaptor and as you can see from the pics the welds are over the top of the bolt.  I ground down the welds flush with the top of the bolt. DSC02758.JPG (64301 bytes)
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2. Slide the adaptor over the shock bushing and tap down with a hammer if required.  Once you have the bolt hole lined up insert the bolt through the shock eye and tighten using a 3/4" Socket and 3/4" Combo Wrench.  Make certain that the shock adaptor is inline with the shock body.
3. Here is the assembled front shock.
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AiROCK Height Sensors
1. Unpack the four height sensors and the 4 clamps for the arms.
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2. The height sensors will have a colored sticker on them.  These stickers designate the position of the height sensor on the Jeep.  The wire on the B terminal of the 3 plug connector should match the color of the sticker.

Left Front - Yellow (I)
Right Front - Green (II)
Left Rear - Red (III)
Right Rear - Blue (IV)

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3. The Height sensors for the Rubicon Express Long Arm TJ suspension systems have been designed to utilize the outer two bolts that hold the outer frame rail brace to the frame.  The bolts run through the frame horizontal to the ground.  These bolts should have been installed so that the nuts are on the inside of the frame, if not you will need to remove the bolt and install it properly.  Use a 3/4" Socket and Combo Wrench to remove and tighten these nuts.
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4. Remove the nut from the bolt and install the AiROCK sensor bracket for that position.  The bracket should rest on the top edge of the frame rail to help position it and prevent it from moving. 
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Note: The front and rear arms will have the sensor arm (Purple anodized parts) pointed towards the front of the vehicle.  The front arms are the top 2.
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5. Open up the 4 sensor linkage mounts with a flat tip screwdriver (otherwise know as a hose clamp)
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6. Place the stainless link bracket over the lower control arm and clamp to the control arm.  I found that placing the bracket on the outside of the front control arms and on the inside of the rear control arms aligned the sensor arms to the best position.
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7. Adjust the bracket so that it is sitting against the Jam nut on the control arm.
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8.  Rotate the bracket so that it aligns with the sensor arm.  Ensure that the sensor arm is free from binding and able to move freely.  Tighten the control arm bracket using either a straight tipped screwdriver or a 5/16" socket and short extension.
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9. Tighten the bolt attaching the sensor arm to the control arm bracket using a 5/32" Allen wrench and a 3/8" Combo Wrench.  Install the bolts so that the nut is on the bracket side.
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AiROCK Wiring Harness
1. Lay out the wiring harness and double check all the wires to make certain that none of them have been damaged in transit.  The cables are nicely wrapped, but it's always good to double check before you install this harness.
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12 volt Connection
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Speed Harness Connector
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ACU Connector
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Aux Input and Data Connectors
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Height Sensors:  H2 is the one with it's own cable, the other is H1, H3, H4 (last one on the cable run)
2. The harness is designed for a certain layout on the Jeep.  The main Junction point (center of picture, wrapped) should be positioned at the top center of the firewall, under the hood (most Jeeps have a mounting tang at this point).  Position the harness behind it so that it will remain in place.
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3. The Controller cable will be run through the firewall.  You will find a plug at the bottom of the firewall that comes through behind the console.  Pull this out. 
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4. Cut a slit through the plug and feed the controller cable through it.  I left it free until I was ready to route the cable through the dash to the controller location. 
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5. Route the H1, H3, H4 cable  over to the driver side.  This cable will run down along the driver side frame rail and loop to the passenger side on top of the gas tank cross member.  I routed it as far over to the side of the engine compartment that I could.  You want to keep these wires away from the heat of the Catalytic Converters that are on that side.
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5a. Coming down the Driver side.  Connect the H1 sensor.  I went right down past the side of the box that connects the fender to the firewall.
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5b. Looping over the gas tank cross member.  Connect the H3 sensor.
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5c. Connected.  This is the H4 Sensor.  I zip tied the cable to the sensor.  I am trying to find some small cable holders that will stick to the height sensor bracket so that I can hold the wire better.
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6. Now route the single H2 height sensor lead over to the Passenger side and down to the Right Front (Green II) Height Sensor.
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7. Route the 12volt Connection over to the battery.  Remove the fuse and store it in a safe location.  I decided to take a tap straight off of the power distribution box.  I used a 10mm socket to remove one of the bolts and attach the positive (red) cable to the box.  I then attached the negative (black) cable to the battery negative terminal.
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8. I decided to zip tie the (2) Aux Input connectors and the (1) Aux Data Connector together and leave them over by the vehicle computer.
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9. Now route the ACU cable over to the driver side and see how much room you have to locate your ACU in.  There is plenty of cable to reach almost every place on that side that you can use.  I did check the fit of the cable into the ACU.  Note: Placing the ACU on your unprotected fender does lead to scratch's. 
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Speed Harness
1. Lay out the wiring harness and double check all the wires to make certain that none of them have been damaged in transit.  The cables are nicely wrapped, but it's always good to double check before you install this harness.
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2. Locate the speed sensor connector on top of the transfer case.  One side goes to the speed sensor located in the tail shaft section of the transfer case.  Pull the red lock button over to the side and then unclip the connector.
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3. Install the Speed Harness between the connectors and zip tie up in place.  Now route the harness along the transfer case and transmission, then up along the firewall.
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4. I did have plenty of cable left over, so I could have probably routed it along the frame rail, but decided not to undo it all so that I could see if I did.  I just coiled up the excess cable and zip tied it in place.  Now connect that other end of the harness into the Speed Harness connector on the Main cable
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Mounting the ACU
1. I needed a convienent spot to mount the ACU out of the way.  Now since I had taken up most of the space on the fender I couldn't mount it there, but nothing resided in the ABS tray on the driver side so coincidently that became the home of the ACU.
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2. Remove the 4 bolts holding the tray in place with a 13mm Socket, a long extension, and a 13mm combo wrench.
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3. I positioned the ACU in the center of the skid and installed the screws.  They are self tapers so all you need to do is drill them down with a 1/4" socket.  I used a ruler to line up the ACU.
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4. Now reinstall the tray into the Jeep.
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AiROCK Controller
1. Remove the center dash surround by first lifting the defroster cover and removing the 2 phillips head screws that hold the surround in place, then just pull the surround away from the dash. 
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2. You will need to feed the control cable up behind the Heater/AC controls and the Radio.  This is not an easy task.  If you need additional room you can remove the radio and the Heater/AC control panel.  Note: The radio has a nut on the backside that needs to be removed to pull it out.
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3. Pull the cable up the backside and out.  I pulled all the access cable in from the engine compartment.  Remember you have the exhaust on the other side so to much slack in the cable could cause it to touch or get close enough to the exhaust to melt the cable.  I just tucked the unneeded cable down behind the dash.
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4. Now reassemble the dash.
5. I did not mount the controller until I was able to test the system out and verify operation.  The double sided tape that holds the controller to the dash is very hard to remove, so if for some reason your controller is bad you will have a pain getting it back off.  Note: I did have a controller that the controls had accidentally been reversed left to right on it but I knew about this before the install, and had a corrected one before I was even ready to put it on the street.
6. Once the system is tested remove the double sided tape from the bottom of the controller and position on top of the center dash surround.


Shock Installation


Length with parts
26 5/8"
26 5/8"
28 3/4"
27 1/8"
19 1/2"
19 1/2"
21 5/8"

I was playing around and wondering how much of a lift the edlebrock's would give to the RE 4.5 Coils.  Didn't end up being much, but it was about 1/2".  So I installed the shocks before I did the air bags.  I just didn't drive the Jeep around.  Note: This is not in accordance with the ORO instructions for AiROCK, but it worked out fine, since I did the springs the next day and the weight of the jeep was still supported by the springs.
1. Remove the Front Shocks.  Remove the 2 lower bolts with a 13mm Combo wrench, 13mm Socket with extension.
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2. Remove the top post nut with a small adjustable wrench to hold the center shaft and an open end wrench or ratchet wrench for the nut.  For the OME's I needed a 11/16" Combo Wrench.
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3. Remove the Rear Shocks.  Remove the lower bolt holding the shock to the axle.  Stock shocks require a 15mm and 18mm Combo Wrench and/ or Socket.
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4. Remove the top 2 bolts holding the shock in.  You will need a 13mm Socket and 2 long extensions to reach up into here.
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Here are the OME shocks compared to the new Edlebrock shocks.
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1. Mount the front shock.  Drill out the upper mounting hole to 7/8".  I was able to grind out this hole with a Dremel tool, but it requires a steady hand and a lot of test fitting.
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2. Install the top nut.  This nut requires quite a bit of force to screw down.  I used 2 (12") Adjustable wrench's.  Use 1 wrench to hold the top of the shock around the eye, and the other to tighten down the nut.  If you have a 1 1/4" Combo Wrench you can use that on the nut.
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3. Bolt the bottom bar pin eliminators into the axle housing.  This requires a 1/2" Combo Wrench and a 1/2" Socket with short extension.
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4. Install the Rear Shocks.  As you can see the bolts that came with the JKS bar pin eliminators were to long to fit in the stock mounts.  I tried a few idea's but in the end I just used the cutting wheel on the dremel to trim back the bolt.
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5. Bolt the shock in place with a 6mm allen wrench.  This is a little tight, but it can be done.
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6. Reinstall the lower shock bolt. Stock shocks require a 15mm and 18mm Combo Wrench and/ or Socket. 
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Note: I already had the Tera Shock Relocators installed so they remained and I attached the shocks in that location.  Off Road Only does have a set of rear shock relocators that you can weld together and then weld to the rear LCA mounts.  I was not a big fan of having to fabricate and then weld up these so I didn't do them.  I did not experience any difference with the tera relocators.


Rear Anti-Sway Bar Links
Off Road Only included these heim jointed rear anti-sway bar extensions.
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1. Assemble the links.  Screw the nuts onto the Heim joints.  Adjust the nut so that it sit 1/2" in from the end.
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2. Screw the heim's into the center section and tighten the Jam nuts with (2) 3/4" Combo Wrench's.   Note: Anti-seize the threads on the Heim's before inserting into the center section.  This will minimize the corrosion due to dissimilar metals.
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3. Remove the rear anti-sway bar links.  The top requires a 18mm socket, the bottom a 15mm socket and 18mm Combo Wrench.
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Here is the 3 links for comparison.
RE 4.5 Long Arm Link
ORO Heim Joint

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4. Install the Links to the upper mount point on the frame.  For these you will need the longer bolts that you purchased above for it to fit right.  Insert 1 bolt through the heim, then lock washer, then insert the bolt through the bracket on the frame.  Carefully install a nut on the bolt.  This requires some patients, and care since there is a hole that leads into the frame behind this bracket.  You will not be able to get the nut back if it goes in that hole.  You will need a 9/16" Combo Wrench and Socket.
5. Do not connect to the anti-sway bar yet.  But I recommend putting the hardware through the heim so that you don't lose it.
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Front Air Springs
You may need to remove your front anti-sway bar links. Dsc03017.jpg (437423 bytes)
1. Remove front Springs Dsc03018.jpg (476012 bytes)
2. If you have the front spring clips installed, remove these otherwise it's really hard to pull the spring out. DSC03020.JPG (341273 bytes)
3. Remove the front bump stop Dsc03030.jpg (499335 bytes)
4. Remove the bolt holding the cup on.  This requires a 15mm Socket and extension. DSC03031.JPG (352467 bytes)
5. Remove the Spring Isolator.  You may need to twist the isolator to break it free. Dsc03032.jpg (480636 bytes)
6. Measure down 2" From the upper spring seat and mark a line. DSC03037.JPG (352329 bytes)
7. Cut off upper bump stop stub as shown.  Dsc03039.jpg (499386 bytes)
8. Remove Nylock nut.  Remove the front lower mount from the front air spring assemblies.
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9. Place AiROCK lower mount on lower spring pad as shown.  Mark the lower spring pad for drilling.
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10. Dill a 1/2" Hole in the lower mount.  Be careful, there may be a space between the welded spacer (Rubicon model) and the top of the spring pad.  Debur the hole making certain that the pad it flat.
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11. Verify that the plate sits flat on the spring pad and that the holes line up.
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12. Trip the web between the shock and the cut bump stop mount.  This is to prevent rubbing of the air bag on the point of the web, that could cause a tear in the bag.  A template is provided.
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13. Remove upper front mount nut and washer (big metal plate).  Test fit the air springs over the bump stop stub that you cut earlier to verify enough has been removed.
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14. The driver side is the easier of the two to install.  Place the Air Spring assembly on spring pad.  Install Nylock nut, but do not tighten.  On the passenger side I just set the air spring assembly on the spring pad.
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15.  With a floor jack, lift the axle and guide the 2 upper assemblies into and around the cut off bump stop stubs.
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16. Rotate air spring assembly until air fitting is towards the front of the vehicle. 
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17. Install washer (big metal plate) and Nylock nut.  TIghten nut with a 3/4" Deep well socket.
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18. Now remove the bolt holding the front track bar to the axle.  You will need room to thread the Nylock nut up and into the cavity below the spring pad.
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19. Unscrew the bolt with a 15mm socket.  You won't need to pull the bolt out all the way, just enough to remove the nut and clear the space behind the track bar.
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20.  Using the supplied 6" piece of 7/16" clear tubing place the nylock part of the nut over the end of the tube.  Some kits my already have a spare nut installed on the tube.
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21. Feed the nut up into the cavity and install on bottom of air spring.  Utilize the hose to start the Nylock nut on the lower right mount.   This takes some patients to accomplish.
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22. Feed a 3/4" crows foot wrench and small extension up into the cavity to tighten down the nut.  Do not fully tighten.


Rear Air Springs
1. Remove Rear Springs Dsc03000.jpg (479051 bytes) 
2. Remove the Rear bump stop Dsc03001.jpg (431870 bytes) 
3. Remove the bolt holding the cup on.  This requires a 15mm Socket and extension. DSC03003.JPG (342277 bytes) 
4. Remove the Spring Isolator.  You may need to twist the isolator to break it free.  Some TJ's may have come with a lower mount isolator also, so check the lower mount for the same. DSC03004.JPG (344533 bytes) 
5. Clean off both mount surfaces.  Mine had a lot of dirt caked into this area.  You need to have a flat mount surface for the air springs.  Check the bolt for the rear track bar at the frame mounting point.  Ensure that the bolt does not protrude more than 1/4" thru the nut.  If it does, cut the bolt flush with the nut before installing the right rear spring.  This will prevent the bolt from rubbing a hole into the air spring. Dsc03005.jpg (487674 bytes)
6. Drill the upper bump stop thread with a 3/8" Drill bit. Dsc03006.jpg (523742 bytes)
7. Mark the center of the lower spring pad and drill out to 1/2".   
8. Remove the Nylock nuts from the top and bottom mounting studs on the air spring assemblies. DSC03007.JPG (340335 bytes) DSC03008.JPG (322586 bytes)
9. Test fit the air spring assembly onto the lower mount to ensure that the bolt clears the axle assembly underneath.  I had to trim both of mine for clearance. DSC03013.JPG (352797 bytes)
10. Install rear air spring with the wedge of the upper mount pointed towards the front of the vehicle.  Dsc03010.jpg (474939 bytes)
11. Install washer and nylock nut on top of upper spring pad to hold air spring assembly.  Tighten with a 9/16" Combo Wrench. DSC03009.JPG (329055 bytes)
12. Maneuver, rear axle up with the floor jack to insert the lower air spring mounting stud through the hole in the lower spring pad.  Install lower nut with 3/4" Combo Wrench.  Do not tighten yet. Dsc03011.jpg (457071 bytes)
Installed. Dsc03012.jpg (480071 bytes)
 Dsc03016.jpg (499476 bytes)
Fully Extended
Dsc03015.jpg (460126 bytes)
Fully Compressed
Dsc03014.jpg (414597 bytes)
Max compression on bump stop


Final Steps
1. Route airlines from ACU to individual air bags.  Insert airline into fitting, once air line is inserted into fitting, pull on airline to seat seal.  If airline is held captive your connection is complete.  I followed the routing of the wires for the two rear air springs, and ran the fronts down through the large hole in the fender well near the air springs.
2. Recheck all your torques on your bolts.  Install rear anti-sway bar drop brackets.  At this point the only Nuts that should still be loose are the 4 lower air spring nuts and the bolt for the front track bar to axle bracket.
3. Ensure that all electrical connections are made.
4. You need to be ready to pressurize the system at this point.  Reinstall all tires and remove vehicle from Jack stand.  Lower vehicle slowly down onto the bump stops for the shocks. 
5. Turn vehicle on and pressurize air system.
6. Install the ACU fuse and verify that the controller display lights up with the "AiROCK" message. 
7. You will need to scroll through the setup to find the test air spring selection.  Refer to operators manual for further information.
8. Pressurize the Air Springs to 25psi and check for leaks in the system.  I recommend turning off the Jeep once you have all springs to 25psi.
9. Tighten all lower air spring nylock nuts.
10. Reinstall front track bar bolt.
11. Restart Jeep and proceed with air spring calibration.  Note: Front anti-sway bar should be disco'd if using Quick disco's, or swayloc should be disengaged.

Installing a new height sensor

This page last updated: 26-Apr-2018

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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