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Jeep Medic Engine Skid

Medic Engine Skid

Part #: Long Arm Skid

I have been looking for an engine skid to protect the vulnerable oil pan and form a better transition into the transfer case skid.  Now there are a couple out there, but only 2 that I know of that will fit the long arm kits.  Tri-County Gear makes one, but after watching my friend wait 6 months to get his, I decided that maybe that wasn't a good way to go.  Well luckily for me Jerry at Jeep Medic Fabrications designed an engine skid to work with any lift, long arm or short arm.  You just need to order the appropriate skid.  Now this skid is very well built and is priced very affordable for what is offered.  The additional neat thing is that it mates perfectly to his belly up transmission skid.  The directions sent with the skid work perfectly, of course I did a one thing differently, just to see.  I won't comment on the phonetic spelling of a few words in the directions.

Additional Parts:
Tools Needed:
Long extension
15mm Socket
9/16" Socket
9/16" Wrench
Various drill bits up to 3/8"


First open up the packing crate.  This thing was probably crated better than anything I have seen in the past, and that includes some pretty expensive aircraft parts.  I was impressed to say the least.  Additional bonus is all the new drywall screws that I gained for my collection.  Thanks. Quick Update on this part, I later used some of the wood to frame in an additional air intake for my A/C and some of the screws to install new drywall in a bedroom.
Packing Crate
Okay after spending a little while taking out all the screws and the bracing I finally got it out of the crate.
Long arm skid
1. Start over on the drivers side, remove the nut holding the motor mount on.  This requires a 15mm socket and a long extension to get to it. driver side motor mount
2. Then install the first brace.  This is a L shaped bracket.  The long part goes towards the rear of the vehicle.  Reinstall the nut. installing bracket bracket installed
3. Now hang the longest of the 2 angle iron pieces.  Slot side up.  Just insert the carriage bolt through, insert lock washer and spin the nut on, do not tighten just yet.  The brace goes on the front side of the bracket. support rod
4. Now off to the passenger side.  You will need to insert two bolts into the motor mount and stick them through the holes.
passenger side motor mount
passenger side motor mount
5. Now install the second bracket, this time it installs facing towards the front.  It is really fun holding the bolts in and inserting a lock washer and nut on each one.  Tighten these down with a 9/16" socket.
install bracket
bracket installed
6. Now install the short piece of angle iron, slot side up.  Once again just install the bolt, lock washer and nut loosely.  We will tighten theses later. install support bar
7. Now since I didn't really do step one of the directions, I lifted the skid with a floor jack and bolted up the front supports.  Now the medic skid comes with 2 sets of holes drilled in it.  The top set is for not Body Lifted Jeeps, and the bottom set for a 1" body lift.  I installed mine there.  Once again it's carriage bolt, lock washer, nut, loosely installed.
install front of skid
Install front of skid
8. Now I positioned the end of the skid on the Transfer case to see how it lined up and where I would need to drill the holes.  The directions stated use a 7/16" drill bit, but I was able to use a 3/8" drill bit.  Good possibility since I used the skid as a template for drilling.
lift back of skid
9.  I followed the directions at this point and marked a line centered between the transmission mount bolts.  I noticed that the engine skid had a notch cut into it that lined up perfectly with this line.  Once I got this line and the notch lined up I did a quick check to see if the oil drain and transmission drain were centered.  They were, so another step of the directions was done.  I marked the openings in the skid onto the RE skid plate.  I then dropped the skid and marked a line 1 1/4" in from the front edge of the skid and drew a line across and through the openings I had marked. mark transmission skid
mark on skids
10. I then lifted the skid back into position and drilled the first hole.  Once this was done, I inserted a carriage bolt, washer, lock washer and nut.  I snugged this one up before I drilled the second hole.  I double checked the line up on the skid and drilled the second hole.  Once you get this hole drilled go ahead and insert the last bolt, washer, lock washer, and nut.
11. Now all you need to do make certain the skid is positioned and tighten up all the bolts.  I tightened the skid plate to skid plate bolts first, then the rest.
12.  The final product.
installed skid
installed skid

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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