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Monroe Steering Stabilizer

Monroe Steering Stabilizer

Part #: 22-1945-4 or SC 2928

Since I was putting a lift on and was looking at bigger tires I figured that the stock stabilizer just wouldn't be enough.  I was putting my old OME kit on another Rubi and the OME stabilizer was going with it so I needed another stabilizer.  A couple of other people were running the Monroe Steering Stabilizer and I had in the past so I decided to go back to it.  First impressions were great, while it isn't as big as the OME, it certainly is stronger.

Additional Parts:
Tools Needed:
Gear-puller/ pickle fork
Big Hammer?
15mm Socket
18mm Combo wrench
19mm Combo wrench
11/16" Combo wrench
7/8" Combo wrench


Stabilizer Characteristics
  Compressed Extended
Factory 11 3/4" 19 1/2"
Monroe 12" 19 5/8"


Just a shot of how the Monroe looks next to the stock one.  Not really a lot of difference.  Okay the body is much thicker.  The real strength is in how much force is required to expand and compress this stabilizer. stabilizer comparison
1. First you will need to remove the old steering stabilizer.  Now I figured since mine was brand new it would be easy.   remove old stabilizer
2. So I pulled out the cotter pin and removed the 19mm castellated nut from the tie rod end of the stabilizer.  Now all I needed to do was remove the taper pin from the tie rod and that end of the shock would be free.  Now there are plenty of tricks to doing this.  Tapping on the sides of the tie rod around the pin usually frees it up and it falls right out.  Jeep put a hex head on the pin, so I figured that I would be able get a wrench on there and give it a twist.  No luck there.  So I pulled out the old gear puller, I tightened it up and it still wouldn't come off.  So I tightened it up a little bit more and BANG, it came off.   drag link bolt
3. Now all I needed to do was remove the 15mm  bolt and 18mm nut from the axle and the stabilizer is off.  axle bolt
4. I first placed a washer on the new tapered tie rod pin, then inserted it into the stabilizer, another washer and then tighten down the nut.  One note, the washer with the big hole goes on first. new drag link pin
5. I first bolted the stabilizer to the axle bracket.  Make certain that you extend the stabilizer before you do this.  It is easier to push it in, than to pull it out.  All that is left to do is insert the Monroe provided taper pin in the tie rod, tighten down the new castellated nut and insert the cotter pin.   install pin in draglink
6. Completed new stabilizer installed


  N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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