Part #: OGS 125
I had looked at a few of the Adjustable Front Track Bars for the Jeeps. I had pretty much narrowed it down to the Currie and the JKS (actually OGS) bars, when I realized that they were the same bar, just different prices. The main reason for these was the Johnny Joints and the ability to grease the frame attachment point just like the factory. The JKS (OGS) bar uses a rubber bushing at the axle end and a Johnny Joint at the Frame end. I am using the bar for 4" and up lift. It fits fine since the 3.5" RE springs actually net you a little bit more in height.
9/16" drill bit
13/16" Combo Wrench
7/8" Combo Wrench
1 1/2" Combo Wrench
19mm Combo Wrench
REMOVAL (FSM instructions)
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball stud end at the frame rail bracket.
(3) Use a universal puller tool to separate the track bar ball stud from the frame rail bracket.
(4) Remove the bolt and flag nut from the axle bracket. Remove the track bar.
As we can see the Factory Service Manual instructions are quite detailed.
|1. I started by removing the cotter pin and 19mm castellated nut from the frame side taper bolt. Now place the pickle fork between the track bar and the mount point, give it a couple of blows with a hammer to separate the track bar.|
|2. I then removed the 15mm bolt from the axle side of the bar. There is a capture nut on the back side. Be careful with this nut and bolt. Once you get this out you can pull the old track bar out.|
|3. Now that you have your track bar out, you will need to drill out the frame mount point to 9/16". Now this is a big drill bit that needs to go in a little area. You will need a 1/2" drill to do this, most likely the angle drill. Now I spent the better part of a morning going and finding the drill bit and renting an angle drill. Drilling the hole out took all of about 2 seconds. I could have probably gotten this with my Dremel and a grinding head. There wasn't a lot of metal to remove. I had jacked up the vehicle at this point to give me some more space, but don't really know if it was necessary.|
|4. Now insert the new bolt through the head of the new track bar. Note that the bolt goes through from the side that does not have the extension of the Johnny Joint. Then put the tapered cone on.|
|5. The fun part is trying to hold this assembly up, insert the bolt in the hole and then get the nut on top. It is much easier to do with 2 people. The nut is a 7/8" and the bolt a 13/16". Make certain that the tapered cone sits entirely inside the frame mount, if it sticks out any you will need to trim it.|
|6. Now all that is left is to extend your track bar to center the axle and bolt it back up to the axle. I first extended mine out to match the hole in the axle bracket, and then measured to center the axle (see below). Mine is extended 31 1/4". Once you have your new length, all you will need to do is get the holes to line up. I did this 2 different ways. Since I first needed to move it some distance, I just turned the steering wheel and this forced the axle to move over. Remember you don't have the track bar on so nothing will hold the axle stable laterally. Once I got it close, I just put my foot on the frame and gave it a push until the holes lined up. Like I said before be careful with this bolt and nut, I managed to cross thread the bolt into the nut and it was a pain to get out. I went to the dealership to find these and 5 weeks later I finally got it in. A 3/8" by 3" bolt works well as a temporary.|
|7. Once you get the axle centered you will need to tighten down the Jam nut. This takes a 1 1/2" wrench to tighten down. Once you have everything tightened down you will need to take it for a test ride. Remeasure your settings after this test drive. Once you are certain that you have the axle centered as best that it will be then grease the johnny joint on the frame side.|
Start by Jouncing the front of the vehicle a couple of times. (i.e. make it go up and down). Then take a steel ruler (measuring tape will work) and measure from the frame to the tire rim centered above the axle. This measurement will give you the most accurate distance for the following reasons. It negates most of the effect of having the tires turned slightly, and the fact that the body does not sit perfectly straight on top of the frame. I know mine sits slightly off, but the measurements were talking about here are not that big and that small difference will matter. Once you have the difference in sides you will need to figure out how much you need to lengthen or shorten the adj. track bar. If the Driver sided (most likely) is larger than extend the track bar 1/2 the distance, if the Passenger side is larger than shorten the track bar 1/2 the distance.
|N-m||Ft. Lbs.||In. Lbs.|
|BALL STUD NUT (FACTORY SETTING)||81||60||-|
BOLT AT THE AXLE BRACKET (FACTORY SETTING)
|9/16" BOLT (FRAME BRACKET) (JKS)||-||85||-|
|AXLE MOUNT BOLT (JKS)||-||50||-|
|JAM NUT (JKS)||REAL - REAL TIGHT|
This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008
and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail, Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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